Brew Day Tuesday.

Yesterday, we decided to cook up what I think would be the third version of an as-yet-untasted Belgian Pale Ale. Our third batch, as it were.

  • First batch – Fermentation issue with suckback.
  • Second batch – Rushed, from kettle to keg, in 10 days to meet competition deadlines.   Needless to say. Initial tasting were not impressive. Throwaway batch…
  • Third batch – TBD… Here we are.

I figured it would be fun if I went through the average brew day here at Benesh Brewing.

RISE AND SHINE

IMG_2373
Yup, 8 in the morning.

8am. I’ve been trying to start brewing earlier in the day so I am done by 1pm. I used to start at 11am and since the rule is no beer until 12-noon I would be nice and buzzed as the brew process was happening, and focus would drift and I would finish by 8-ish. By starting earlier, I can stave off the drinks until around the boil process is almost over, and…it just works better this way.

Where to start though? It’s 8am. I need crack my grains.

IMG_2385
Grind those grains.

I already know I am brewing a Belgian Pale Ale. Its actually for my brothers upcoming wedding. Even though this is my 3rd iteration in as many weeks, I still originally brewed it with the idea of leaving it in the keg for a month before the wedding. That 1-month leisure period is now burned up and this is what Im looking at:

Brew: 1 day
Ferment: 3 weeks minimum, 4 weeks maximum
Keg & Carbonate: Two weeks
Bottle: 1 day.

This brewed March 15. That means this should be ready to drink sometime between April 21st-April 28th. The wedding is April 30th. Yikes! Lets get going.

IMG_2399
Bru’n Water Software for water calculations

I need to work out my water profile while the Mash water is heating up. I know that I want a water profile similar to what is available in Antwerp for our Belgian Pale Ale.  We always start with RO water that is purchased from our resident water dealer. Its cheap in bulk and its nearly stripped of everything so I can build the profile myself. A little gypsum here, baking soda there. Calcium Chloride, Epsom salts, etc. The Bru’n water software will let you pick a water profile from a dropdown list, let you input what type of water you are using or the water profile of the water you might use, and then through a

IMG_2382
Minerals for addition.

series of manually input variables, you can best match your water by gallon with the profile selected. Its pretty neato!

 

THE DOUGH-IN.

BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP. Oh, thats just the mash water thermometer. Its hit my target temp for Mash-In. My grains are all crushed per my settings, and now I will mash-in, or dough-in while using my Mash Paddle. Making sure the grains don’t form an alliance to keep the water from penetrating their membrane, I’ll us the big mash paddle to break them up.

IMG_2391
Dough-in

When all is said and done, I’ll adjust the temperature on the burner so that the mash stays a consistent temp that fits my mash schedule.  Speaking of mash temp. There are a couple of different mash techniques you might be aware of. I use a circulation mash.this.

This is how the it works:
Mash Tun sits on a burner. The mash spigot, located at the bottom of the tun, is open and the mash is constantly recirculated via a pump through the sparge arm to the top of the tun. The theory is that the warmer wort(still becoming, anyway) located on the bottom of the tun near the burner will recycle up to the top of the mash, trickle through the grains and keep the temperature happy.

IMG_2402
Recirculation Mash

Its a real necessity when using stainless mash tanks as they cool much much much quicker than the standard home-
brew insulated igloos. I’m not knocking those by any mean
s, but did I mention this added be
nefit of circ-mashing: Clarity. Your wort will be cleaner and clearer coming out of the tun into the kettle. As the recirculation is happening, many many tiny little particles of grain get filtered through the entire grain bed, eventually becoming trapped and filling in little gaps. As the individual little pathways of water are sorted out, the clarity improves dramatically. Check out this photo below, from left to right: Mash-in, 30 mins, and Mash-out.

 

IMG_2409
Recirculation mashing: At Mash In, 30 minutes into mash, and just at mash-out.

Looks great, right? Sparge time:

IMG_2403
Sparge. Looks nice and clear.

I brew 7 gallon batches with the intent of fermenting 6. This gives me an entire gallon to pull from for tastes, test gravity reads, etc.  Look at all that wort to the right. Nice and clear, right? In my particular brewing situation, I boil off roughly about 1.4 gallons per hour of rigorous boiling.

THE BOIL

While the Mash-out is taking place(usually about 10 minutes – oh, did I not mention that in a recirc mash you don’t need to spend an hour mashing out? Just set that spigot to full speed, and fly-sparse like normal…except 4 times faster. Efficiency is already pretty taken care of with the recirculation mash. I average about 1/4-1/2 gallon more pull than BeerSmith calculates, and usually .002 or .003 gravity points higher as well.

Now that all the nice clean wort has been pulled, its time to get the kettle back up to a boil. Meanwhile, I am going to lay out all my additions for the boil. The hops, and in this case, some ground up coriander and just a little bit of home-made belgian-style beet sugar rock

IMG_2417
Boil Additions. Hops and Herbs.

candi.

A few ounces of Goldings and my personal all-time favorite hop, Czech Saaz for finishing.

These additions go into a hop-spider I found online. Pretty sure its made for another brewing system, but it works wonders.

 

 

Here is an overhead of the boil:

IMG_2410
Hop pellet goo in the hop spider. 

 

And, here is an overview of the tiny space I am crammed into:

IMG_2413
Megapots, Stout Tanks, Thermoworks thermos, and a March Pump.

Lots of hoses. I’ll explain them to you – I’ve been hooking this up since the boil started, so all I would have to do at flame-out is open the spigot into my fermentations vessel:

Kettle has a hose into the plate chiller, which outlets into the fermentation tank. The smaller kettle on the left is filled with just-above-freezing water(ice and water). It outlets to the pump which outlets into the plate chiller and that outlets back into the chill-kettle.

FERMENTATION:

I made a mistake not taking a picture of the yeast-starter I’ve been working on. But, here is the gist: Belgian Ale Yeast, I made a 1.2Litre starter for this back. And I pitched it into this SS Brewbucket tank, which I highly recommend. I’ll tell you, the sooner you can let go of the translucence of the glass carboy you will be free. This is safer, lighter, easier to clean, easier to get your beer out of – with one exception, its pretty idiot proof: SUCKBACK.

When you go to free your beer of its dark, cold chamber, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS pull your blow-off tube out of the blow-off bucket, lest you suck all that crap

IMG_2422
This tank is amazing. 

back into the kettle(RIP, Belgian Pale Ale Batch 1).  I’ve made 30 or so batches in this bucket, and I make that mistake nearly every time. You would think I would put a post it note or safety tape or something on the spigot so I remember before I evacuate its contents.

 

Hope this helps explain the brewing process. I’m glad to help in anyway I can if you have any questions.

 

These are manufactures I use and recommend:

Bayou Classic – Mash Tun
Megapot – HLT
Stout Tanks – Brew Kettle
SS Brewing Tech – Fermentation
Edelmetall – Burner

As for sites to buy stuff:

Adventures in Homebrewing
Williams Brewing
Morebeer

And, for yeast. If you can get it at a home-brew store please do. While shipping it isn’t the worst thing, even more online retailers will admit it is not recommended. I’ve received yeast from an unnamed bigger home-brew company that was over 2 months old. At that point, yeast viability is probably hovering around 70%. Most home-brew stores will throw away yeast that is older than a month.

 

Would love to hear your questions or feedback. beneshbrewingco@gmail.com

Thanks!

 

 

Advertisements

9 thoughts on “Brew Day Tuesday.

    • Yup. The photo is a battery operated one from my work tools, I’ve recently switched over to a cheap plugin one I found on Amazon, so no more recharging batteries. Cuts down the grind from 20 minutes to maybe 3 or 4. The important thing of coarse is finding a good speed and gap so the grain doesn’t get pulverized. I wasted a good couple of pounds trying to find that zone. Cool blog! Looking forward to reading more posts!

      Like

    • Si ca o concluzie… nu cred ca este atat de important felul in care scriu cat ceea ce vreau sa spun… ce este mai important?!… ca iti scriu functii cu doi I sau ca ne aflam cu totii intr-un impas din care nu vom reusi sa iesim nici daca folosim sau nu cuvinte si22;dicoase?!&#8am0nDragul meu” “Odden”, noi stam cu un picior in groapa, iar dumitale iti pasa de gramatica… frumos nu am ce zice!Oare de ce s-a infiintat acest site?!… sa ne dam lectii unii altora… eu nu cred… tu ce parere ai?!

      Like

  1. Exelclent read, I just passed this onto a friend who was doing some research on that. And he just bought me lunch as I found it for him smile Thus let me rephrase that: Thanks for lunch!

    Like

  2. I have noticed you don’t monetize your website, don’t waste
    your traffic, you can earn extra bucks every month because you’ve got high quality content.

    If you want to know how to make extra $$$, search for:
    Boorfe’s tips best adsense alternative

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s